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Travel > China > Maria's Musings: Part 1
Copyright © 2007 Maria Frick
Maria's Musings: Part 1
Posted 20 October 2006
It seems like we are taking turns at the computer and sleeping. Both of us got up at
3am after crashing last 'night' at 6, after a full day's trudging around Tianan'men
Square and the Forbidden City, and I contended myself with my diary while Ted
composed his first article.
Our 'Beijing Home Lodge' is
sparsely furnished but comfortable, sporting a 28 inch
television with DVD Player as well as a brand new computer with flat screen monitor
and high speed internet access, while the bathroom and kitchen are more basic. The
furniture is somewhat 70s, but to my astonishment I looked up and discovered
gorgeous molding around the ceiling. It is hard to tell how old the complex might be
- the concrete, bicycle filled halls are dirty and smeared with Chines graffiti,
while the elevators seem fairly new and are working very well. Most important of
all, the place is warm and has very cozy beds, something we will not be able to take
for granted in the teahouses at Thorong Pass.
During the bus ride from the airport on Wednesday afternoon, Ted took a nap, while I
struggled to keep my eyes open: everything in Chinese, although some of the bigger,
more important street signs are also in pin yin. It was, for the most part, a
highway ride, that had me primarily pondering what the Eucalyptus-like trees might
be called that were growing on either side of the road. I later read that the
closest desert area - that is, non-arable land - is only 18 km away from Beijing,
and that each spring brings fierce sandstorms coming in from the Gobi desert, with
the sand landing as far away as Taipei. To stop the advance of the desert,
apparently there is a massive tree planting effort underway, the 'Green Wall'.
Otherwise, the ride was rather drab, somewhat reminiscent of Eastern Europe in its
day: Beijing is one of the most polluted cities on earth, and on this day, the sun
did not get through the yellow-grey haze (as I found out the next day, in Beijing,
you can feel the pollution more than smell it - luckily, I have not experienced any
respiratory problems so far although my eyes started burning almost immediately).
Besides, because we hit the evening rush hour (there are a lot of cars in Beijing
now, even though there are still plenty of bicycles happily - or
dangerously - mixing in with the traffic, and three-wheeled cycles with all sorts of
contraptions for transporting goods or passengers), it was dark by the time we
finally arrived at the train station.
I was half prepared for the rush of bodies and the smells of India upon
disembarking, and sure enough, the touts were there, and the bicyle rickshaws as
well. We waved them all away and started walking
purposefully, although we had no clue where to find the Beijing
International Hotel that was supposed to be our meeting place. Finally, we gave up
and showed the address in Chinese characters to one of the bicycle guys and thus an
adventurous ride started that took us, piled high atop our luggage, in very close
proximity to oncoming buses, other bicyclists and pedestrians (the Indians honk like
crazy in such a sitution, the Chinese merely wave), down a hutong where Ted took off
someone's mirror during one of those too-close encounters. The whole experience had
me giggling like crazy. Finally, afer asking around a number of times - something we
could not have done without our Chines rickshaw driver who charged us a premium (4
times the money for the bus ride) for just that, no doubt - Ted managed to make a
phone call to the manager of the
apartment suite we were to stay at. While I was sitting cross-legged in my abandoned
rickshaw in the courtyard, I was developing Plan B: it seemed a number of Westerners
were living there so surely, one of them must have a cell phone, and should be
otherwise able to help the stranded new
arrivals. But it didn't get that far, as we had soon met up with Lydia in front of
the green ATM machine, and were quickly installed in our
apartment.
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