Slideshows
Slideshow: China/Tibet October/November 2006. Beijing to Lhasa on the new high altitude train to enjoy the sights and sounds of Tibet. Then overland by jeep to Nepal.

Flash6: Annapurna Circuit, Nepal, November, 2006 Highlights from a 16 day trek covering the Annapurna Ciruit, 130 miles and included crossing a 17,700 foot pass.

Nepal. Just the word conjures up images of stunning peaks and spectacular ascents – Mt Everest, Kachenjunga, and the Annapurnas. Others think of rugged trails and gorgeous vistas of the world’s highest mountain range, the Himalayas. Long considered a premier hiking and climbing destination, Nepal’s fascination for Westerners remains unchanged. For some, experiencing these mountains and valleys means the trip of a lifetime. Others, a life changing experience.

But you don’t need to spend weeks researching tour operators and studying topographic maps before you book a passage to Nepal. Common sense, physical conditioning, studying up on acclimatization and Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), and some basic research are all it really takes to trek in a country with three-quarters of its territory covered by mountains.

If you live anywhere outside the Himalayas or the Andes, chances are here you will be at a higher altitude than the tallest point in your country, and probably 5,000 to 10,000 feet higher than you’ve ever been. Knowing what hiking at high altitude can do to your body is the first thing you’ll need to know. Using that knowledge to trek responsibly is second. Finding a guide, porters, food and lodging are relatively straight forward procedures in Nepal as the country is geared up for trekking tourists. Coping with the altitude and the weather will be your biggest concerns. First, let's take a look at your gear needs.

HEAVY PACKS NOT REQUIRED FOR TREKKING
It is easy to go light in Nepal. For starters, you don’t need to carry a tent or food if you hike any of the trails in the Annapurna Conservation Area, or the other most common areas like Everest Base Camp. Both lodging and meals are available in most, if not all, of the villages you will walk through. Most trekkers opt to stay in one of the many guest houses in the villages that hug the trail. Choose a guest house with some care as you enter a de facto contract with the proprietors that they will also be providing all your meals and drinks... eating meals at another guest house is verboten.

Hydration: It is best to carry water bottles and refill them at the so-called Safe Water Drinking Stations that are using ozone-filtration technology financed by the New Zealand Overseas Development Assistance Fund. This project enabled the training of locals and building of drinking water stations in many villages in the Annapurna Conservation Area Project. We were able to use this system almost exclusively during our trek at a cost of 40 to 80 rupees per liter, or less than half the price of bottled water. This practice also helps to reduce the number of plastic water bottles that have to be carried up the trail as well as limits plastic waste that is often discarded with little concern to the environment: no one is paying porters to haul empty bottles down the trail and trash disposal systems in these remote mountain villages are rudimentary at best. We never used the water filtration system we brought with us.

Footwear: get good boots that fit well. You will need to make sure they are broken in, and pad hot spots, if necessary. I thought mine were, based on the 80 to 100 miles I spent hiking in them before the trip, and wearing them every other day before we started our trek. But 4 days into our trek, I had open blisters on both heels. After my own blister patches ran out two Swiss gals gave me more – better yet, it was Second Skin that doesn’t seem to be available in the US any more. Thankfully, I was able to grind out the trip by switching to my lightweight cross training shoes for most of the uphill, and by the time we had crossed the pass I was ready to brave the boots again.

Make sure your porters have boots or at least the equivalent of cross training shoes. The local Nepali agency that we paid to provide porters, assured us that our porters had good boots. They actually gave one of our guys money to buy new boots the day we started. He purchased a pair of knock-off Adidas running shoes and wore flip-flops for most of the way. Our other porter had some well worn hiking boots with Vibram soles – a gift from an Israeli trekker some years earlier, as it turned out. While the first four days of our trek went over ankle-turning rocks, I wore lightweight cross training shoes for over half the trek including going over Thorung La. I took four pairs of liner socks and three pairs of thicker wool socks, rotating and washing them as needed.

Clothing: Although some trekkers overload their packs knowing that porters will be carrying the load, we went as light as we possibly could. Your bottom half can be accommodated by one pair of shorts and long pants for cold days and nights. Three pairs of synthetic underwear – both bottoms and tops – that can be hand washed and dried quickly, should be all you need. A couple of wicking t-shirts, a piece of lightweight fleece, a heavy weight fleece, and a windshell should round out your normal daily outerwear needs. Fleece hat and gloves are always recommended. All of these items as well as lightweight down parkas – knock-offs of well known US brands – are available in Kathmandu and Pokara at prices 75% lower than the US. Granted, they use lower grade materials and construction, but my $30 down parka did the trick at high altitudes where it was below freezing for several days. A waterproof poncho, which I think works better than a jacket, can be tossed in the pack in the event of rain.

HIRING PORTERS AND GUIDES
Although some trekkers we met carried their own pack, changes in Nepali law will require all trekkers to hire guides in 2007, and quite possibly this will be interpreted to have at least one porter for each foreign trekker.

You can choose from one of the dozens of trekking agencies that are in Kathmandu or Pokara or you can trust one of the many on-street solicitors who will ask you if you need a trekking guide.

We talked to several trekkers and Western guides in Kathmandu. A reputable British chap with many years of leading treks in Nepal, directed us to an agency in Pokhara. Through them, we hired two porters at US $10 day/each. They did carry our packs although one of our porters had a fondness for chang and raksi. These are homebrews fermented from grains (chang) or distilled from grain and raw sugar (raksi). In addition to the possibility of exacerbating AMS, he became belligerent. We talked to him and asked a couple of other porters to have a word with him regarding his alcohol use. At the higher altitudes, he greatly reduced his intake. Discussing issues like this ahead of time are vital for an enjoyable trip.

Likewise, discussing the pace – number of kilometers to be covered, villages for nightly stops should - also be considered and discussed prior to hitting the trail.

FOOD & LODGING
Most treks wend though villages where simple lodging can be had for USD $1-3 nightly per person. The lodges range anywhere from family homes that have been expanded to buildings designed for travelers. Communal squat toilets are the norm but occasionally rooms with toilets can be had.

Beds usually consist of plywood or slats with foam or sometimes a mattress. Blankets are sometimes included. We used our down sleeping bags and were thankful for them as the temperature dipped into the below 20 degrees at the higher altitudes.

Food is simple fare consisting of rice dishes, bread, sometimes yak or other meat, boiled eggs, cereal, coffee and tea. A form of pizza, usually a chapatti sprinkled with tomatoes, cheese or other delicacies, and then quickly fried or baked. Soft drinks, beer, chang and raksi can also be purchased.

Expect to spend anywhere from USD $6-15 daily for your meals and sleeping accommodations. Alcohol will drive up the price and its intake is inadvisable at altitude.

TOO HIGH TOO FAST CAN BE DEADLY
Of the ten highest mountains in the world, eight are totally or partially located in Nepal. On our trek around Annapurna, we crossed a pass almost 18,000 feet high, or 6,500 feet higher than the peak of Mt. Hood, the tallest mountain in our home state of Oregon. This means the first thing you will need to learn about is how to acclimatize or get your body used to the increase in altitude. Going too high too fast can literally kill you.

Unfortunately, many trekkers are unaware or dismiss the need to acclimatize. “Hey, I won’t be climbing Mt. Everest... I'm just going trekking.” Wrong. Mountaineers have long known that they need to acclimatize. That’s why they hike into base camp, and let the body make adjustments as they ascend. Only after proper acclimatization are they ready to go higher, or make summit attempts. They don’t want to get altitude sickness, an umbrella terms that covers Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), high altitude cerebral edema, known as HACE or water accumulation in the brain, and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), a condition where water accumulates in the lungs.

AMS doesn't discriminate. It doesn’t matter if you are young or old, male or female or just ran the Boston marathon. It has absolutely nothing to do with how physically fit you are, and you can’t condition yourself other than appropriately slowing your ascent. Simply put, some people are more susceptible than others. On our trek, we learned that a porter - a local guy - got AMS and had to descend. We also learned that in 2005, a porter with over 25 trips around the circuit died of complications caused by AMS.

At sea level, oxygen concentration is just over 20% with atmospheric (also called barometric) pressure around 14.7 pounds per square inch (PSI). An increase in altitude decreases air pressure and reduces the number of oxygen molecules. At 12,000 feet, you get about 60% of the oxygen molecules than you would get breathing the salty air while wiggling your toes on the shores of the Pacific. This means you need to breathe more to increase your oxygen intake. Your body also needs to adjust to the decrease of oxygen it gets. If your body doesn’t adapt, you might have symptoms like nausea, tiredness, sleeplessness or dizziness, or even spitting blood, all tell-tale signs of AMS, a serious condition that can lead to death.

On our trek in Nepal’s Annapurna region, we wanted to enjoy the world’s deepest valley, high lakes, and distinct vegetation zones, from sub-tropic to high-alpine. We allotted 16-18 days to cover roughly 130 miles, factoring in acclimatization concerns and sight seeing opportunities. Our starting point was at 2,690 feet (820 meters), and the highest point was Thorung La, a pass at 17,769 feet (5,416 meters). We knew that after reaching 9,842 feet (3,000 meters) the altitude we needed to sleep at should be no more than 1,000 - 1,300 feet (300 to 400 meters) higher than the previous day’s sleeping altitude. In fact, the recommended altitude gain, once you are over 8,200 feet (2,500 meters), is 820 feet (250 meters) per day. At 11,614 feet (3,540 meters) we laid over for a day to assist the acclimatization process and then took 2 days to reach 14,500 feet (4,420 meters) before attempting to cross the pass.

Fortunately, we did not suffer from problems at altitude, thanks to education and a pace that permitted proper acclimatization. Before you go to Nepal, take the time to learn about AMS. Check with your local colleges, universities and mountaineering shops to see if they offer lectures or classes on AMS. Use this knowledge when you trek at high altitudes.

Be prepared to take actions to help yourself or someone suffering from AMS. First, understand the need to descend. Go down, go down, go down. It is important to note that a person suffering from AMS symptoms often doesn’t recognize the symptoms or the need to descend. But don’t send them down alone. Have a partner to assist them in the event their symptoms become debilitating.

Consult with a physician to see if you need to use medication such as Acetazolamide (branded as Diamox) as a prophylaxis. This may be helpful for forced rapid ascents (such as flying into Lhasa, Tibet, or La Paz, Bolivia), or for trekkers or climbers where a big altitude gain is unavoidable due to terrain considerations. People who have repeatedly had AMS in the past may also consider taking Acetazolamide. Note that the medication does not protect against worsening illness if you keep ascending when you already have symptoms.

Dexamethasone can be taken if a person is exhibiting AMS symptoms but should never be used during ascent. It will suppress the symptoms, but does not improve acclimatization. In the event of HACE there are three treatments: descend, descend, and descend. Immediate descent should be made to the last elevation where the patient awoke symptom-free. Note that some trekkers have died in Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet, 3,440 meters) with HACE, waiting for a helicopter.

As with HACE, HAPE requires fast descent. Death can occur in a few hours. Treatment includes using Nifedipine or a hyperbaric bag which dramatically improve conditions by simulated descent. In all cases, rapid recognition of symptoms and descent will increase the likelihood of survival.

PHYSICAL CONDITIONING
Other than being prepared to deal with AMS, and making the necessary adjustments for acclimatization when you’re there, trekking in Nepal requires the same preparation as you would take hiking the Appalachian trail, or the Sierras. Your legs and lungs need to be in reasonable shape but you don’t have to be a mountain climber or long distance runner to enjoy the scenic beauty of these surroundings. I hiked 6-8 miles a day for two weeks before we left on the trip. My wife, on the other hand, spent her whole day at the office and did some exercise on the weekends.

Due to our itinerary, we spent 3 weeks in China and Tibet walking or hiking roughly 3 hours each day prior to the trek. By the time we got to Nepal, we felt we were in reasonable trekking shape. The time spent in Tibet also helped with acclimatization. We found the trek to be hard in places but not overwhelming. We didn’t collapse at the end of each day. In fact, some days we only trekked for 2 or 3 hours. I went for evening walks on days my blisters permitted extra ambulation and my wife often took a stroll around the villages where we stayed.

I recommend finding some steep trails and spending some hours hiking them – both with and without a pack. I should probably have hiked on steeper terrain prior to our trek as I developed serious heel blisters 4 days into our 16 day trek. The vertical inclines took quite a toll on my tender feet. Don’t make the same mistake.

You should also bring any medication you might need. On the Annapurna trek, medical clinics are sparse and there are no roads except at the villages that access the trail. There is a medical facility in Manang but their diagnostic capabilities are sparse at best. You may also often find village “health clinics” that can dispense basic medicines closed. If you get sick or injured, you might need to get carried out, hire a donkey or charter a helicopter that can only fly in good weather and will set you back at least $3,000 USD.

A well equipped first aid kit should also be high priority. There are a number of pre-packaged kits available. Many are packed with remedies for the most common field injuries and accidents that cause bleeding. Make sure the kits have enough supplies are good for 2-3 people for up to 4-5 days.

WHEN TO GO
The best trekking season is in October and November. The weather is typically sunny, with clouds rising over the peaks around mid-day and staying there into the evening. You might also find very clear sunsets, though, and if you feel inclined to get up early you can see the sunrise over an ever changing Himalayan panorama. Temperatures are in the 50’s or 60’s during the days, but can easily fall below freezing at night, especially in the higher elevations. Be prepared for freak snow storms – do not attempt to cross the passes after snow has fallen or if the conditions are uncertain. Spend an extra night in Manang or Thorung Pedi, even if it means seeing the same movie and eating at the same place twice.

You can also trek during the “shoulder season” – in December and even into January – but will need to allow more time to deal with storms. You will also need to alter your equipment list slightly. Trekking in the summer is not recommended due to the monsoon, which frequently results in mud slides and makes the trek less pleasant due to an abundance of leeches.

PERMITS
A trekking permit is required to trek in any part of Nepal. If you want to trek two areas, you will need two permits. Each permit requires details for the route and region. Carry cigarettes to distribute to police officers if you venture off the route. Park fees: A fee of Rs. 1,000 (less than US$ 15). is payable at the ACAP Offices or at the park entrance.

Trekkers going to the Annapurna Region have to pay a fee of Rs. 2,000 which is payable at the Information and Entry Fee Collection Counter of Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), Sanchaya Kosh Building, Thamel (Ph 223088 Ex. 363), Kathmandu The toll is utilized for environment conservation and maintenance of the area.

For all areas, get permits at the Department of Immigration (Kathmandu), Number 10 Baneswor, Prabha Kanhaiya Complex (tel. 977/1-494273 or 977/1-494337) It is on the road that runs between the Everest Hotel and the International Convention Center. Trekking-permit applications are accepted Sunday through Thursday from 10am to 1pm and on Friday from 10am to noon.

You can get permits for Annapurna, Lower Dolpa and some other miscellaneous areas in Pokhara Immigration Office. (tel. 977/61-21167 or 977/61-20028), is located just off the traffic circle at the end of the Lakeside neighborhood (east of the Hotel Pumori and west of the Hotel Tragopan). Trekking-permit applications are accepted Sunday through Thursday from 10:30am to 1pm (12:30pm between mid-Nov and mid-Feb) and Friday from 10am to noon. The U.S. Embassy is located at Pani Pokhari in Kathmandu, telephone (977) (1) 441-1179.  The Consular Section is located at the Yak and Yeti Hotel complex on Durbarmarg Street.  The section can be reached directly at (977) (1) 444-5577; fax (977) (1) 444-4981 or through the Embassy switchboard.

For more information:
Nepal Tourism Board: http://www.welcomenepal.com/

Nepal News: http://www.nepalnews.com/archive/main.htm

Trek Info.com: http://www.trekinfo.com/

Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal: http://www.taan.org.np/