Ethiopia - 2023 | Ethiopia Nov 2022 | Contact Us
All photos and videos Copyright © 2025 Ted P. Eugenis
All photos and videos Copyright © 2025 Ted P. Eugenis
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There are two sets of images, four videos, a description of a trip taken in Lalibela and Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, which represent aspects of the days before, during and after Gena, or Ethiopian Orthodox Christmas. They were taken over a six day period from January 3 - 9, 2025, in Lalibela, and from the 9th - 16th in Addis Ababa.
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Gena 2025 in Lalibela
The photos and videos show pilgrims streaming into Lalibela, camping around the church complex and sitting at the tented station where community members wash the feet of the pilgrims arriving for Gena. There are images and a video of the lively livestock market where cows, steers, goats and sheep transactions take place, an outdoor kitchen where donated food is prepared for the pilgrims, a street queue where hundreds of young boys wait to get interviewed by priests to see if they are fit to start their theological training, Gena church celebrations, food distribution to the pilgrims, and then the long trek home for many of the pilgrims.
The photos and videos show pilgrims streaming into Lalibela, camping around the church complex and sitting at the tented station where community members wash the feet of the pilgrims arriving for Gena. There are images and a video of the lively livestock market where cows, steers, goats and sheep transactions take place, an outdoor kitchen where donated food is prepared for the pilgrims, a street queue where hundreds of young boys wait to get interviewed by priests to see if they are fit to start their theological training, Gena church celebrations, food distribution to the pilgrims, and then the long trek home for many of the pilgrims.
Buying a Cow for the devout pilgrims
My guide and friend, Abebe Baye, with his encyclopedic knowledge of the architectural, religious and cultural aspects of the area, was instrumental in pointing out the various aspects of Gena. On this visit, he purchased a cow at the large livestock market to donate to the community. (He ended up buying one from a priest on the way to the market at half the price - 30,000 birr versus 60,000 birr). We walked the cow to the donation center, and the priest was paid at Abebe's bar where we celebrated with cold beers.
My guide and friend, Abebe Baye, with his encyclopedic knowledge of the architectural, religious and cultural aspects of the area, was instrumental in pointing out the various aspects of Gena. On this visit, he purchased a cow at the large livestock market to donate to the community. (He ended up buying one from a priest on the way to the market at half the price - 30,000 birr versus 60,000 birr). We walked the cow to the donation center, and the priest was paid at Abebe's bar where we celebrated with cold beers.
Gena 2025 in Lalibela
The photos and videos show pilgrims streaming into Lalibela, camping around the church complex and sitting at the tented station where community members wash the feet of the pilgrims arriving for Gena. There are images and a video of the lively livestock market where cows, steers, goats and sheep transactions take place, an outdoor kitchen where donated food is prepared for the pilgrims, a street queue where hundreds of young boys wait to get interviewed by priests to see if they are fit to start their theological training, Gena church celebrations, food distribution to the pilgrims, and then the long trek home for many of the pilgrims.
Buying a Cow for the devout pilgrims
My guide and friend, Abebe Baye, with his encyclopedic knowledge of the architectural, religious and cultural aspects of the area, was instrumental in pointing out the various aspects of Gena. On this visit, he purchased a cow at the large livestock market to donate to the community. (He ended up buying one from a priest on the way to the market at half the price - 30,000 birr versus 60,000 birr). We walked the cow to the donation center, and the priest was paid at Abebe's bar where we celebrated with cold beers.
The Community Kitchen
On Christmas Eve, we visited the community kitchen where boisterous volunteers drank traditional homemade beer and cooked the donated food for distribution on Christmas day. Later, we went to St Mary's church squeezing along the narrow ridges packed with pilgrims for the joyous Gena celebration with hundreds of chanting priests. Thousands of pious Ethiopian Orthodox people prayed with a smattering of foreigners squeezed between the devout. People hovered above, crammed below and lay prone strewn around the church.
Tourism hasn't rebounded
Once one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ethiopia, Lalibela is emblematic of a tourist destination decimated by years without tourists. Hotels have been mainly empty for years and previously employed many locals, impacting all as they struggle to survive. I saw blocks and blocks of closed shops that once catered to the throngs of tourists. Abandoned hotel projects, one that was expanding to over 600 rooms, looms like the narrator of hard times. But the pilgrims still come. Many walked to Lalibela covering dozens of kilometers, some for a day, others much longer. Pilgrim buses were scattered around the church complex and roads close to churches were crammed with stalls selling clothing, horsehair fly swatters, religious items, candles, crosses, shoes, nail clippers, or pretty much anything a pilgrim might need.
But six successive years of turmoil, starting with Covid restrictions, the civil war, four consecutive failed rainy seasons, and continued fighting in the Amhara region and elsewhere means tourism hasn't rebounded.
Ethnic and political strife
Most Ethiopians cautioned me about going to Lalibela due to ongoing conflict in Amhara region, but since Gena (Orthodox Christmas )was Jan 7th, I figured there would be a cease in hostilities. I decided to visit Lalibela after reading travel advisories from several governments that said don't go, news articles from over 8 sources that specifically cited security issues in the region, and discussions with people in the travel and security sectors.
Militia was interspersed with Ethiopian National Defense Force (ENDF), who are battling FANO, a former ally of the ENDF and now fighting to protect the Amhara ethnic group. Since the civil war, Lalibela has been occupied at various times by the Tigray People's Liberation Front (TPLF), the ENDF, FANO, and currently the ENDF with hired militia members.
In the Amhara region, there have been verified reports that ENDF is operating several detention camps with Amhara people. One village about 60km from Lalibela was shelled with howitzers in December 2024 from an ENDF military detachment that has take over a fairly new sports stadium.
In the southeast, the Ogaden National Liberation Front (ONLF) has been active for decades is still at odds with the central government. In the Oromiya region, the OLF (Oromo Liberation Front) now disarmed has splintered into the Oromo Liberation Army (OLA), and active in the Oromiya region and elsewhere. In the North, there is FANO who is fighting for the Amahara people against the ENDF and remnants of the TPLF (FANO previously fought with the ENDF against the TPLF and its alliances with the OLA and other groups.)
The Fano movement can be characterized as a "popular resistance movement in Ethiopia’s Amhara region—born out of the need for self-defense against the marginalization, persecution, and ethnic-based pogroms that target Amharas. More specifically, beginning in April 2023, Fano began coalescing into a force to defend the Amhara region and its people when the Abiy regime launched a war of aggression on Amhara under the pretext of “disarming regional forces.”, as defined by the Ethiopian Policy Institute.
I was told that there are some fake FANO or ENDF groups that are actually bandit and/or kidnap crews that like to grab well-intended members of NGOs and tourist volunteers like me.
There have been verified reports that the Amhara ethnic group are being detained, killed and buildings razed- even in Addis Ababa where my friend's restaurant was basically decapitated. He is still operating albeit with an outdoor patio instead of indoor dining, and very reduced bar and kitchen. A successful Ethiopian music/dance group, Fendika Cultural Center, had a building that was razed. They now do their performances at the Hyatt Regency hotel, performing almost daily with Azmari musicians and dancers , jazz , traditional Ethiopian instrumentalists, singers and dancers and poetry.
Food, drink and entertainment
Eating goat meat, shiro, injera, drinking areke and beers with friends in bustling restaurants were highlights as good natured bantering made the meals entertaining and enjoyable. Seeing the Fendika troupe performs and attending Mahmoud Ahmed's final concert and celebration on January 11, 2025, at Addis Ababa’s Millennium Hall were trip highlights.
Besides being a historic event recognizing his 60+ years of being a legendary singer, you also felt like the entire nation was bidding farewell to Mahmoud Ahmed. I saw people crying, one man told me, "This is the best moment in my life." There were performances by Lij Michael, Gossaye Tesfaye, Tadelle Roba, Jumbo Jote and many more. President Sahle-Work Zewde came on stage citing Mahmoud’s impact on Ethiopian culture and music.
Even through my group was pressed up against the barricade separating us from the security crew and the stage, the other people on the floor did not crowd us, something I don't think would have happened at a concert in a big venue in the US or Europe. I didn't find it surprising given that on my five trips to Ethiopia I've found the culture be mainly polite and respectful, despite the ethnic and political strife. This is highly evident in vehicular traffic where it may seem chaotic, but having lived in India where I drove a small car, Ethiopians use their horns sparingly where in India one hand is either hovering over or honking their horn.
Direct philanthropy
I was able to train people on several different water purification devices and related equipment to schools in Lalibela and NGOs in Addis Ababa. The Lalibela teachers are going to take them to the poorer villages in the Wollo area of the Amhara region. I also gave away about a dozen pair of shoes, a bunch of solar Luci lights, some headlamps, smart phones, SIM card Wi-Fi routers, and other gifts that will help the people communicate, study, cook, sew and other activities.
Visit Ethiopia. You won't be disappointed.
The photos and videos show pilgrims streaming into Lalibela, camping around the church complex and sitting at the tented station where community members wash the feet of the pilgrims arriving for Gena. There are images and a video of the lively livestock market where cows, steers, goats and sheep transactions take place, an outdoor kitchen where donated food is prepared for the pilgrims, a street queue where hundreds of young boys wait to get interviewed by priests to see if they are fit to start their theological training, Gena church celebrations, food distribution to the pilgrims, and then the long trek home for many of the pilgrims.
Buying a Cow for the devout pilgrims
My guide and friend, Abebe Baye, with his encyclopedic knowledge of the architectural, religious and cultural aspects of the area, was instrumental in pointing out the various aspects of Gena. On this visit, he purchased a cow at the large livestock market to donate to the community. (He ended up buying one from a priest on the way to the market at half the price - 30,000 birr versus 60,000 birr). We walked the cow to the donation center, and the priest was paid at Abebe's bar where we celebrated with cold beers.
The Community Kitchen
On Christmas Eve, we visited the community kitchen where boisterous volunteers drank traditional homemade beer and cooked the donated food for distribution on Christmas day. Later, we went to St Mary's church squeezing along the narrow ridges packed with pilgrims for the joyous Gena celebration with hundreds of chanting priests. Thousands of pious Ethiopian Orthodox people prayed with a smattering of foreigners squeezed between the devout. People hovered above, crammed below and lay prone strewn around the church.
Tourism hasn't rebounded
Once one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ethiopia, Lalibela is emblematic of a tourist destination decimated by years without tourists. Hotels have been mainly empty for years and previously employed many locals, impacting all as they struggle to survive. I saw blocks and blocks of closed shops that once catered to the throngs of tourists. Abandoned hotel projects, one that was expanding to over 600 rooms, looms like the narrator of hard times. But the pilgrims still come. Many walked to Lalibela covering dozens of kilometers, some for a day, others much longer. Pilgrim buses were scattered around the church complex and roads close to churches were crammed with stalls selling clothing, horsehair fly swatters, religious items, candles, crosses, shoes, nail clippers, or pretty much anything a pilgrim might need.
But six successive years of turmoil, starting with Covid restrictions, the civil war, four consecutive failed rainy seasons, and continued fighting in the Amhara region and elsewhere means tourism hasn't rebounded.
Ethnic and political strife
Most Ethiopians cautioned me about going to Lalibela due to ongoing conflict in Amhara region, but since Gena (Orthodox Christmas )was Jan 7th, I figured there would be a cease in hostilities. I decided to visit Lalibela after reading travel advisories from several governments that said don't go, news articles from over 8 sources that specifically cited security issues in the region, and discussions with people in the travel and security sectors.
Militia was interspersed with Ethiopian National Defense Force (ENDF), who are battling FANO, a former ally of the ENDF and now fighting to protect the Amhara ethnic group. Since the civil war, Lalibela has been occupied at various times by the Tigray People's Liberation Front (TPLF), the ENDF, FANO, and currently the ENDF with hired militia members.
In the Amhara region, there have been verified reports that ENDF is operating several detention camps with Amhara people. One village about 60km from Lalibela was shelled with howitzers in December 2024 from an ENDF military detachment that has take over a fairly new sports stadium.
In the southeast, the Ogaden National Liberation Front (ONLF) has been active for decades is still at odds with the central government. In the Oromiya region, the OLF (Oromo Liberation Front) now disarmed has splintered into the Oromo Liberation Army (OLA), and active in the Oromiya region and elsewhere. In the North, there is FANO who is fighting for the Amahara people against the ENDF and remnants of the TPLF (FANO previously fought with the ENDF against the TPLF and its alliances with the OLA and other groups.)
The Fano movement can be characterized as a "popular resistance movement in Ethiopia’s Amhara region—born out of the need for self-defense against the marginalization, persecution, and ethnic-based pogroms that target Amharas. More specifically, beginning in April 2023, Fano began coalescing into a force to defend the Amhara region and its people when the Abiy regime launched a war of aggression on Amhara under the pretext of “disarming regional forces.”, as defined by the Ethiopian Policy Institute.
I was told that there are some fake FANO or ENDF groups that are actually bandit and/or kidnap crews that like to grab well-intended members of NGOs and tourist volunteers like me.
There have been verified reports that the Amhara ethnic group are being detained, killed and buildings razed- even in Addis Ababa where my friend's restaurant was basically decapitated. He is still operating albeit with an outdoor patio instead of indoor dining, and very reduced bar and kitchen. A successful Ethiopian music/dance group, Fendika Cultural Center, had a building that was razed. They now do their performances at the Hyatt Regency hotel, performing almost daily with Azmari musicians and dancers , jazz , traditional Ethiopian instrumentalists, singers and dancers and poetry.
Food, drink and entertainment
Eating goat meat, shiro, injera, drinking areke and beers with friends in bustling restaurants were highlights as good natured bantering made the meals entertaining and enjoyable. Seeing the Fendika troupe performs and attending Mahmoud Ahmed's final concert and celebration on January 11, 2025, at Addis Ababa’s Millennium Hall were trip highlights.
Besides being a historic event recognizing his 60+ years of being a legendary singer, you also felt like the entire nation was bidding farewell to Mahmoud Ahmed. I saw people crying, one man told me, "This is the best moment in my life." There were performances by Lij Michael, Gossaye Tesfaye, Tadelle Roba, Jumbo Jote and many more. President Sahle-Work Zewde came on stage citing Mahmoud’s impact on Ethiopian culture and music.
Even through my group was pressed up against the barricade separating us from the security crew and the stage, the other people on the floor did not crowd us, something I don't think would have happened at a concert in a big venue in the US or Europe. I didn't find it surprising given that on my five trips to Ethiopia I've found the culture be mainly polite and respectful, despite the ethnic and political strife. This is highly evident in vehicular traffic where it may seem chaotic, but having lived in India where I drove a small car, Ethiopians use their horns sparingly where in India one hand is either hovering over or honking their horn.
Direct philanthropy
I was able to train people on several different water purification devices and related equipment to schools in Lalibela and NGOs in Addis Ababa. The Lalibela teachers are going to take them to the poorer villages in the Wollo area of the Amhara region. I also gave away about a dozen pair of shoes, a bunch of solar Luci lights, some headlamps, smart phones, SIM card Wi-Fi routers, and other gifts that will help the people communicate, study, cook, sew and other activities.
Visit Ethiopia. You won't be disappointed.
